Tuesday, October 28, 2008

The Men Who Would Be Girls

Caution: Eros at Work






I blame Oprah. I do.

It's all those y
ears our favorite gal pal encouraged the rest of us to find our 'authentic voices' which in turn seems to be have largely been in service to request that the men in and around us, do the same. How many times have we hammered away at men to reveal their 'inner this' and 'inner that'? There's been far too much sharing going on - way more than nature intended. This whole movement of making men morph into masculine versions of us has only resulted, as far as I can see, in men that talk Far Too Much.

They cry.
They wonder.
They have feelings.
They care about decor.

Last night I had a second date with a guy who asked me what my intentions where. What MY intentions are? What is he worried about? That I will play fast and easy with him and leave him a fallen man? People in town will talk? He is 51 and a bankruptcy lawyer. Originally, what appealed was his masculinity which, on this second outing seemed missing in action. He intrigued me at hello at the trial yoga class but was well into a bit of danger of losing me to Too Much Profound Disclosure Too Early On. He should have just opened with testosterone. Like the proverbial little black dress, it's always appropriate. Of course, in my youth, I liked those alpha guys. Then after a few stints of the silent type wherein you live out your Beauty and the Beast scenarios, you learn to want more connection or somewhat more of a spectrum of social interchange. But go figure, by 40-something and onwards, you realize – a functioning, male person is a beautiful thing. If you want to talk, you have your girlfriends for that. In fact, when men talk too much, they spoil the mood. The whole point of men is that they are ...well, men. It's a good thing. In my world, that is still fashionable.

But yes, my date continued. It's good to ask about intentions. He attested that women have their agendas and a man needed to know these things ahead. Why waste time or break hearts? I wanted to remind him we were only 17 minutes into the second act but at the very least, I do understand they people make incredible leaps - something based more on fear than reality. I have done that too, so I said nothing.

He told me he was taking Reiki and hot yoga and recently added textured vegetable protein to his diet in the homemade cabbage rolls he made.

“Makes a house feel cozy, the scent of cooking, don’t you think? he said. It’s so nurturing.

I felt a slight gagging sensation. And all this of course, is on the heels of being a cookbook author and professional chef to boot. It was a little bit like talking shop and I faced, as I always do in these predicaments, the challenge of saying too much or too little. I went with less is more.

Yes, food is nurturing, I agreed, feeling whatever seduction I might have had dwindle away. One wants a Guy and you get talky-feely Mr. Cabbage Rolls. It wasn’t happening. I don’t think anything quells libido quite as fast as talking Yiddish or mentioning the words, cabbage rolls. Unless of course, it’s kasha and bowties or stuffed derma or other choice nouns like liniment.


He asked my advice about the last relationship he had and my opinion on what ‘she’ had meant when she said this or that and how come women give mixed messages and cannot commit.

Oh, I don’t know, I said reasonably (feeling again, Like The Guy),
I think perhaps people just are all different.

But no - he rejoined-
Women are less in touch with their feelings nowadays and seem scared of intimacy. I am a nurturing man. I need to be met and validated. You know....once you make yourself vulnerable - there is risk.

(What? Isn’t all that my script? And if he is worried about being vulnerable and risk factors, well, then, I will have to soothe and comfort which again....usurps the girl role which is mine by birth.
He wants to be the girl by proxy.)

You need to be 'met'?

I want, he said, pausing a sip of his coffee concoction that featured both whipped cream AND steamed milk, something….authentic. (
Do you think they have Splenda or only Sweet 'n Low?, he asked)

Something authentic? I parried.

By the second coffee refill, I definitely began to feel like The Guy. My date was oh-so-gentle and inquiring and making more eye contact than an games tracker, studying me intently for my every word. In a way it was nice to be so attuned; on another level, I felt the oxygen disappearing and perceived I was being measured in some new age barometer.

I quickly chased to the bottom line. He wanted to talk feelings; I wanted to talk about the second golden era of the Internet and electronic rights of digital music. I wanted to talk about the Boston Sox with an adult. My women friends don’t like baseball and my boys only have their boys’ point of view. I have talked enough 'feelings' to fill 12 5-Star Notebook Journals. I wanted to be on a date with a person, coincidentally male, and feel what Elizabeth Bennet does so well: feminine and saucy and bright. There is time enough to get to risk factors and vulnerability.
I hadn't so much as touched his cuff.
But I realized things had changed since I last dated (2 months ago). Moreover, life with three sons had morphed me. In fact, when was the last time I got mad and stayed mad? Don’t remember. I have now acquired the art of moving on and not carrying grudges. I no longer get cranky and catty. Instead, I get sullen and morose for an hour, shoot some hoops in our driveway or paint a shelf and feel better. No one to help reconnect us to the internet (THREE SONS, count ‘em, THREE sons and no one is technically inclined. How is that even POSSIBLE?) so I learned how. I fixed the scanner the other day, as well as the weird black bulb thing in the toilet bowl, and intimidated a trio of roofers from giving me a false and inflated estimate (note to self: never hire roofers that look like the Donkey Boys from Pinochio). I recently learned to change winter tires in Fall (vs. driving on them all season in the errant assumption I would save a tire-change. You don’t. You just ruin the winter tires on hot summer streets). I have lost the art of making idle chit chat about minutia, I don’t want to talk feelings all the time. And I don’t feel bad for my moods nor apologize for ordering what I want. I don’t advertise popular opinions to seem nice and equalitarian; I just do what I know instinctively is right. For me. And I also lost my taste for gossip and make-overs. So on a date, as this was, if the men have changed, so have I.

But then, just to remind me I was still in Quasi Kansas, the conversation took another tact.

I sympathetically mentioned to my date how it must be a challenge, being a single/widowed father, as he was, of three sons.
I too, have three sons.

Oh yes, he said – keeping them in line is a daily learning curve. For instance, swearing. There is in the 'house' talk and 'outside' the house talk.

Ummm, Yes. I guess. (Wondering where this was going. In the house talk vs. outside the house talk? There was a tiered dialect?)

Well – you know – for instance, the 'C' word.

The 'C' word? (Surely he was he referring to candy, to Canada, or a disease?)

Yes – you know – (smiling blandly/benignly). He started to spell it out.

The C word: C, u,n...

I know the word! I said, (I just cannot believe you are using it, here, now and in life in general)

It's just such a great word. Upbeat and to the point. (And then he helpfully said it out loud again)

Actually, it is quite jaunty.

Jaunty?

Oh come on, he said, eyes rolling,
You can’t tell me that is bothersome. Words are powerful, Marcy. One mustn’t be afraid of language.

I leaned in to him, noting the scent of Irish Spring and Swiss Army aftershave – a lethal combination in the best of times which of course, this wasn’t.

Listen, I am a writer.
I know from language. I get words. Trust me. Don’t dick around with things like the C word and tell me it is jaunty and powerful. It unacceptable, you misogynistic idiot.

Game over. My (male) pretence of being a good sport and laissez faire was done. I was indeed, the girl again. And in a pique.

There was a pause. He chucked without mirth, as they say.
He paid for the coffees.
He turned to me and said,

You know – I am a little hurt by your tone. The 'C' word can even be endearing and it took me years to get in touch with my inner bitch – my feminine side – so to speak, and use it. And you put me down for it.

Right.
I am a woman in a crazy café with a witless man who is lecturing me on feelings and the use of one particular 4-letter word that is, in essence, a distillation of all that is evil and base and sad and more to the point than a Pulitzer haiku.

We made our way out of the coffee shop; he dropped his thermal gloves and asked that I get the door while he picked them up. Sure. I opened the door for him and he bristled at the chilly air.

Brrr, cold, he said – really cold. I think tomorrow will be an old-fashioned Irish oatmeal day. You know – it lowers your blood cholesterol? I serve it in these new Pier 1 bowls I got – that have a feng shui design on them’.

I felt the gag reflex revisit.

Call me, he said cheerfully, walking away to his eco-friendly Camry.

There is this great line Jack Nicholson says in the end of the film Something’s Got To Give. He says, standing on the bridge in the Paris moonlight, feeling he’s lost Diane Keaton, wiping a few tears from his eyes, with a wry smile, “Look who gets to be the girl’.

I like that line.
I know what he means. Me too.
My next romance?
I want to get to be the girl.
A real girl.

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Monday, October 22, 2007

Cry Me a River, Ophelia


That's it! I’ve had it with the Crazy Girls.

I just had yet another date with a guy who spent my time (MY time) and yet more, still-awful Starbucks coffee telling me about the girl before me who dumped him who he still loves. Of course he loves her. She was crazy. What is more erotic than marginal?Now, I am not talking drama queen crazy or beatnik dominatrix. I am talking bi-polar, off her meds, house torching, drive in-the-oncoming-lane, maybe even borderline narcissist personality. I am talking abjectly, plain crazy. Maybe a little pretty. I don’t know. He was too busy checking her into asylums (when the false pregnancy and feigned abortion backfired into a full blown multi personality state) and administering syringe Librium Prozac cocktails to notice.

I can stand the blond gym bunnies with the butterfly tattoos strategically placed. No, it is the crazy girls – the Ophelias, that I can’t abide. If I was a therapist, I could manage compassion but this is something else. It is the charisma of crazy that has a magnetic hold no perfume nor phonemes can rival. it is the very meaning of fighting dirty.Why? Because – and this is only my theory based on a touch of Meow Mix and Starbucks Klondike brew is that is basically: the crazy girls bring out the rescue gene in the man who is unhappy, maybe feels a touch undeserving of womanly…investment, and feels best, doing the urban guy thing: rescuing the nutcase in a skirt.Now, I ask you, how can I compete with that? Who would ever think that years of self-help (thank you Chapters, Barnes and Noble and O Lists), reading, journaling, and being my own best friend would lead me to incredible emotional health, vats of self-esteem and charm only to discover the mad hatter-ettes trump we Grounded Girls, hands down, every time?

It’s not enough that I am talented, sweet, beautiful, caring, educated. Now I have to feign Insane to pass as interesting? It is a whole new level in hard-to-get. It’s the next level (and definition) of femme fatale.

Does anyone yet see you can be charming and intriguing without being on-a-ledge dangerous? Am I less desirable because instead of crying to be saved, I simply want to be smitten and connect with someone? Are my tiffs boring because I actually can talk things through without throwing crockery, or locking you out of the house, throwing your car keys down a sewer, dumping a can of Red Bull into your computer hard drive, and burning all your legal briefs. Am I dull because I don't manage to get (or arrive) obscenely drunk at the wine and cheese at your new boss’s new house? Is it my fault I don’t cry at the drop of rejection nor post the ins and outs of our relationship online or red spray paint graffiti your front door if I am in a pique? Is it my fault I shrug my shoulders when things don't go well and read yet more Rumi poetry instead of text messaging another Dire Suicide Note, launching a website or plastering things on Facebook that has you once again, running over only to find the impulse has passed and a great deal on Ebay for a vintage slip has upstaged the Mood du Jour? Can I help it if I am reasonable and yet, still anatomically feminine? What is a (normal) girl to do?

Oh how I dislike those crazy girls. Not only do they upstage ‘happy’ and 'adjusted' but once they do, they leave those sensitive, wonderful men who just don’t know from-what-it-is-like-when-it-works with a female civilian strewn about from Ikea to Borders self-help book section. In their way, the Crazy Girls leave broken, scared guys who are (now) generically suspicious of ALL women lest the Next One turn out to be a Crazy Girl. So, not only don’t only I get the guy, I pick up the pieces. All I have to do is ask for ice in my water and he thinks – ah ha. Possibly crazy. They scrutinize your every mood and move to see when you will morph into a Crazy Girl. I can't even tell if they are perversely hopeful (nothing beats familiar) or terrified. Clearly, these men need to be detoxed if not have a full out intervention.
These men, in turn, make you (somewhat) crazy as you prepare for a date with one of them. You are supposed to be the 'That's who you should be dating' girl. But instead, you begin to double check yourself and become extraordinarily nice and sensible until you almost feel like The Guy, lest a bit of emotion leach out of your black Capri pants with matching ballet flats and he even suspects you have Crazy Girl potential. You can't talk about incense, your Tarot deck, or mention any heartbreak whatsoever (discounting invented scenarios of men who were fine while you were stellar but they turned out to be gay so go figure, no one's real fault all things considered, stuff happens). You cannot mention anything possibly episodic. In psychic terms, you almost....ah...neutered. A flat canvas...on which these men upchuck a few chapters of what the Crazy Girl did to him last. He swears its over. He swears she was nuts. You swear you hear.......heartbreak.
Truth is, the Crazy Girls, by default, designate you (the Adjusted, Quasi Girl) as the Dull but Normal one and that has little curb appeal for men raised on drama and nourished by a succession of fruity break ups.If anything, I have had moments of Katherine the Shrew and so naturally, I blame the Ophelias on Ophelia. Nudged a bit, I could blame it on Shakespeare but men will somehow feel that much more guilty by proxy if I even glare Will's way. I blame it on crazy mothers who raise nervous sons who become the men who only know sexy and cuckoo as one and the same.
Damn.
Crazy girls.
I get busted for being classified as Quirky. Quirky, for goodness sakes. I mean, that is sweet! But those Crazy Girls, they are an industry unto themselves. They don't even leave us their castoffs. They are strictly a take no prisoners school of dames.

Damn Crazy Girls

It's enough to drive you.....Hmm. It can make you.....quite....irritated.


* With apologies to any guy who thinks this is about his crazy girl. It is a composite profile of many crazy girls. And if you are with a Crazy Girl, I am sure she is very special. When you're over her, give me a call.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Swimming with the Mammoths


Today was one of those amazing swims. I know – I think the same thing you do: how is that possible? How could one swim be better than another? Isn’t the pool always the same temperature? Isn’t pool water, well, water? You would think but today the pool felt especially warm. And despite the chill of the October air, somehow, at 8 am, this morning, I felt warm inside and rested and hit the water with the confidence of a spoon about to dig into a silky mousse knowing that only pleasure, no pain, lies ahead. And so it was. But there’s more. In the deep end, where I reside for 30 water-logged minutes, there were actually three free lanes, void of kickers, splashers, thrashers – the usually swim folk or break up the water and make me think (as opposed to mindlessly doing the laps I do).Of course in the shower room, there mammoths were all there, in attendance of water Pilates or whatever they do. Who ARE these women? They are huge! Each in excess of 5’ 10, and 250 pound pounds. Hearty girls, as Dana would call them. They come to the showers in groups –not unlike an ancient herd of prehistoric somethings. They are wonderfully, gladly old, as if they were born at 72 years of age and honed it to perfection. I want to get me some of that. They talk and laugh as they take turns in the showers, sporting bathing suits that are veritable acres of black spandex – vistas of Speedo. Without exception, they are all white-haired or piercingly yellow, blond wavy hair like Coca-Cola ads from 1940 for goodness sakes and have ruddy faces, not unlike sailors of turn of the century Maine. If they register me at all, which is rare – for so much concentration seems put into heavily pawing their way to the shower watering hole, they blandly smile and nod, like prehistoric gargantuans kindly, witlessly noticing a small bird or tiny harmless creature. Slowly, heavily, they are always so happy! I like that about them and always make a mental note to come back in another life as a big, uncomplicated, woman of no particular ethnic identity, blessed with equal largesse and grandiosity of spirit. It is a world that celebrates midriff bulge (versus yours truly who will not yet say die and let it all go).

Oh.
How
I Wish.

But still and this is important. They are there to swim and otherwise paddle about and what they lack in finesse and water wings, they make up for in diligence (after all, it is cold out, it IS Fall and they, like I, are here). I admire that. It says what I can become, give or take 20 more years of these early morning swims I do.I am not a great swimmer but I am regular. It is one of those out of character things I do. I suppose you figured me for a yoga sort (which I do resentfully and reluctantly) but parts of me are gleefully against type. Something about the water and the single-mindedness of swimming laps appeals.

Of course, as soon as I made a gratitude blessing to the empty, gloriously free laneways in the deep end Helga showed up. No, I don’t know her real name but I took the liberty of naming her and thus far, she has not protested. Of course, we have yet to introduce ourselves (pool protocol is still unfolding) and so she has no idea of who she is in my world. At any rate, she is the reverse of the mammoths. The anti-Christ of Rotund, she is the next species. Lean, mean, with one of those permanent grimaces you mistake as a constant, albeit hostile smile, navy rubber bathing cap and all sinews and corded muscles. I know she has been eating mueslix for 50 years - that's a given and probably eschews chocolate and tells you to 'have a piece of fruit for dessert if you're still hungry'.
Do you know those people? I don't get fruit for dessert. I didn't do 4 years of pastry at hotel school to offer a 'nice, fresh, slice of melon' for dessert.

Somewhere around 74, or leastways this is what one of the mammoths told me a few weeks ago, Helga took up swimming after some hip replacement necessitated she change exercise (no doubt she was a cross country skier before that) and now of course, outswims even Macho Man in Lane 2. There is discipline and there is Relentless Stamina and she has it all covered.

The problem with Helga is that she is a splasher and also wears fins. Why fins? Why frozen yogurt? Some things have no answer. At any rate, she causes such waves and havoc and General Water Disturbance that a seal on Ecstasy could not create more disruption in Walden Pond Waterways than this woman. If you get in her way, she kicks you or claws you or otherwise bumps you over. Oblivious. Brutally strong - with that added strength born of imperviousness - another trait they do not sell at the dollar store. Anyway, that still left at least one lane free and I mermaided my way over to it and was happy –free and alone. Which is the whole point of swimming versus the gym wherein I will have to talk to people. Sometimes. Sometimes I end up in front of the TV on the only free treadmill and face off against Rachel Ray. But that is another tale for another day. Two more splashers came but I outswam and used the Helga technique (kick out sideways, pretend you did not notice you slugged their thigh with your foot, keep swiming) both Macho Man and the Skinny Sad Eyes Fellow with the goggles.I did a few of my barnacle imitations (you cling to the pool wall like a barnacle. No one knows what this is except my youngest son who understands why it is fun and funny even though it is something I started when I was like, 13).

By 9 am it was time to go. The polo club and synchro girls arrived anyway and the pool happy hour was done.

Got home.
Started writing.

A good day. A good start. Life is…..good. It features aqua tiles and an old towel and smells like chloride. Pool water.

Some days, it smells like perfume.

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

No Reservations Scones, or Baking for Bourdain


What happens when baker meets cook? When Jane Austen meets Cuisine's Bad Boy? Scones and great chat, lots of chuckles, food movie talk and a recipe to take home.


I shouldn’t bake and tell but I must. I just delivered scones to Anthony Bourdain.
Not even extreme scones - just perfectly baked ones. Why? On the occasion of a media interview in Montreal, re: the launch of No Reservations, Bourdain's latest book with Bloomsbury.

Actually, it was only to have been gargantuan oatmeal cookies but something went wrong as it always does, even to the best of us, when baking under pressure (ever try baking, flat-ironing your hair, and driving down downtown in rush hour while realizing you are almost out of gas and forgot meter change?) and the oatmeal cookies spread into a sea of brown sugar and oats, much resembling a dried amber brown swamp basin at the end of summer.

Clearly, scones, my strongest suit, were in order. They are fast, elegant, and non-fail – the little black dress of baking. They also cool quick and you can invent a new one every 15 minutes. No question, scones are heroic. So I made these gorgeous scones with flakes of semi-sweet chocolate, set in a buttery, cream-kissed batter, studded with currants and topped with a tri-flavoured fondant of vanilla, orange and chocolate essence . I create scones as per personality of the intended eater and with someone as adventurous as Anthony Bourdain, I figured, the sky was the limit. That said, I employed restraint; no bile, no entrails – just baker’s classic elements. But I did give a thought to his palate and figured – chocolate was one must; intriguing a second, and rustic but classy (not unlike his edgy but toney persona) was the right note to hit.

Like appearing at a simple function, overdressed, you don’t want to offer a fellow chef over-the-top decadence at first bite. Actually, it is the ultimate what –do-I-bake/guess-who’s coming-to-dinner question. What do you make? My advice (to self and you all) is to bake what you like and what you are in the mood for. Be true to true things.

Ahem.

I have read a bit of Bourdain’s other works and like everyone else, have heard much about cuisine’s bad boy – enough to make this baker girl presume, the press conference, proceeding his sell-out appearance in Montreal on this particular evening, would be about things risqué and raw, about gizzard stuffed lizard’s innards and tossing back beating snake hearts, and all manner of deep fried, marginal things, crazed chefs, and sundry naughty tales. Bourdain, celebrity of the haute kitchen and best and most hallowed restaurant halls of the land, TV, books and more – is synonymous with all things vaguely, outrageously related to what is loosely, broadly called…cuisine.

I didn’t know what to expect other than it was unlikely Mr. Darcy, albeit with an apron, was about to step into the room. I half wondered if outrageous people would be suitably petulant and difficult and braced myself for goodness knows what. Certainly the other journalists were already restless and making asides.

Instead, Bourdain arrived quietly and without fanfare and quickly sat amongst the gathered journalists, offering a warm hello and an immediate thanks for the media turn out. It was like one of your distant, most charming cousins, turning up at a treat, coincidentally, on your birthday and even remembering – i.e. simply, nice manners.

At this point, I confess to feeling a bit counterfeit. As you all know by now, I am a baker/chef and a writer- but journalist? I suppose I am that too but the moleskin notebook sort of question-frantic inquirer, I am not. I felt not a little like the door mouse in Alice in Wonderland or Hugh Grant in Notting Hill, pretending to be an interviewer from Horse and Hound. As the local journalists brought up more inquisitive, provocative questions to the floor and the guest of the hour (Is foie gras dead? What’s the deal with unpasteurized cheese? Who is the fairest chef in France? Is Nigella Lawson as fabulous off camera? What’s wrong with cooking today?” What does he have against culinary school graduates?), I sank deeper into my chair which of course, was about a foot away from Bourdain’s. We were seated in old school style movie seats, and were in semi-darkness, the stage way below, already set up in a Broadway one-man-act, scenario. I decided it was best to say nothing than commit a gaff. I know – far be it from me to not be chatty but I do have a prime time version of myself. I can do circumspect. But then someone said something about food and cinema and I remembered I had a voice.

”Excuse me, but speaking of theatre, perhaps you could shed some light on when chefs became showmen, and instead of teaching, we started performing like rock acts. When did chefs who are supposed to lead and teach about food morph into performers and why do we seem, do home cooks, seem to want this?”

There was a touch of silence – and the energy shifted.

Bourdain speculated that first there was Julia and Jeremiah Tower and Wolfgang Puck but probably Emeril was the one who made food part of celebrity fanaticism. But really, he said, what seems to drive droves of people – viewers – who seem to need to slurp up food shows rather than perhaps, live their own lives of passion is a pervasive lack of passion or somewhat bereft sex lives (actually, he didn’t put it quite as sedately as I just did but you get the point). Talk of celebrity, theatrics and chefs made me segue to asking him about his favourite food movie. Ratatouille (which made him weep. Note to self: Rent Ratatouille) and Big Night are closely tied. (Note to you all: Rent Big Night).

And then suddenly everyone was adding in their two cents about favourite food movies and for a few minutes - the gathering was, as it should have been, about food. Which is the whole point of it all. And it was fun and became lively.
And real.

Bourdain chatted more – as comfortably as if he was in his – no make that, our living room, about his new book in particular (all travel text, tons of amazing photos, lots of character, gusto and more than a few profound reflections – add it to your Bourdain collection), about his respect for the working chefs from Mexico, Salvador and all points and parts not American (or North American) that produce young men of 22 who are already ‘adults’ versus culinary school graduates, of which he (and I), are one such and are just 'kids' in the kitchen.

Peppered with questions, and in anticipation of a full house after us, and two hours of entertaining a mass of people, what emerged was as man who loves food, loves people and vitality, dislikes fundamentalism in any form (whether it be terrorism or vegetarians which he cheerfully lumped together) especially as it pertains to a non curiosity about food or life. Here was someone, despite a reputation for edginess, who was passionate, invigorated, and in a strange way – simply…soulful. He admitted to enjoying his life and profession (“Let’s face it. My life doesn’t suck”) and its perks but confessed to being as happy –left alone, to cook, eat, and wander the world – cameras kindly pointed on someone else. Asked who he respects in cookbooks, his come back was quick and clear: Julia.
Julie Child. You can’t go wrong. Her books are the best. And always, just go back to the basics’.

And then it was done. Or almost. One last question.

Did Chef Bourdain intend to enjoy some Montreal snack food, such a poutine, while here?” someone asked (We Montrealers just seem to want to show people our finest restaurants and then hit them with our frites, bagels, smoked meat and poutine. It’s like offering someone cashmere and fake vinyl in the same sweater).

”Yes, he said, with gusto,
Sometimes you just want to eat that or deli.

To which, on cue, the good baker of BetterBaking.com fetched the warm scones, and handed them over.

"Here is a small cadeau de Montreal. Before you hit the poutine, you might like scones"

Was he stunned? I suppose. More so, his publicist who blanched…but then, I am not your average food journalist; I come prepared (or perhaps it is the nurturing mother in me reacting to seeing a slim chef). I always feel when visiting chefs drop into town, honoured to bring something from my test kitchen. Because chefs, bad boys chefs or not, do eat and need real food. At some point, between planes and trains and hotel rooms, duck spleens and as Bourdain noted, ‘the inevitable hotel room mini bar’ a fresh scone is going to taste awfully good. I know food. I know about human appetite. As a chef. And as a mother. It’s a no brainer. It’s what we do.

The interview ended and we wandered out. I somehow fell in beside Bourdain as the two of made our way down the three flights of stairs in this turn of the century old opera house in Montreal, where outside, some 1500 or so people were waiting in the rain, in anticipation of the sold out event – wherein a chef would appear and just talk, not cook, and somehow keep the fire alive. As the two of us walked we talked about why cooks are all crazed and wild and bakers and pastry chefs more sedate. “Can you be a bad boy baker?” quizzed Bourdain me. “Absolutment, I said.
Some of us maverick bakers – even….rogue bakers. We just don’t brag as much. We keep our nose in the flour’.

We chatted more, about cabbages and kings and then it was a warm handshake, thank you for the scones (just wait until he tastes them. They all think it is ‘just scones’.
Ha. Just. Wait.)

But here’s the thing. Don’t believe everyone’s hype. Sometimes, much like orphaned emails, the tone of which make you debate the intention of the sender, you need a person and tone, to fuse to words and recipes and personality. And such was the case here. I met a chef who loved what he does. I also saw, despite world class fatigue and sophistication – humility. More than that, he loves food, and people –and is, as far as I can tell, appreciative of every facet of food and has a love-intolerance relationship with professional cuisine and an ongoing adoration – nay fascination of the incredible, exotic, world cuisine that happens outside those elite doors. That he, his loves, talents and pervasive hungers became performance art is coincidental. That we are drawn to it says more about us, than the performer. Bourdain is right about that. We need our own passions. Add salt to taste.

Marcy Goldman’s Scones for Anthony Bourdain
Aka Swiss Chocolate, Currant, Orange Glazed Butter Cream Scones
These are the most amazing scones in that they are bursting with flavour and fragrance and all at once rustic but elegant enough to suit a king. Finish them off three ways – with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar, the tri-flavour fondant, or just the butter and sugar before baking treatment. What makes these special is the ground-up chocolate counter pointed against the sultans and currants and then the crown of fondant and orange zest. These were so good that I ate the leftovers at 2 am while reading Kitchen Confidential.

3 cups all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (almost) sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon baking powder
3/4 cup Swiss, semi-sweet chocolate bar, in large pieces
1 cup unsalted butter
2 eggs
1 cup, approximately, whipping cream soured *
3/4 cup plumped raisins
1/4 cup plumped currants

Finishing Touches
Melted unsalted butter

Fondant
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon pure orange extract or 1/4 teaspoon orange oil
1/2 teaspoon pure chocolate extract

Coarsely chopped semi-sweet chocolate
Orange Zest
Confectioners’ sugar

to sour the cream, pout 1 tablespoon lemon juice in a measuring cup. Pour to the one cup mark, with the cream. Let stand and allow to curdle.
Preheat oven to 425 F. Arrange oven rack to upper third position. Stack two baking sheets together and line the top one with parchment paper.

In a food processor, place the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda together and whiz to combine. Add in the chocolate and pulse to almost grind up the chocolate within the floury mix. The mix will turn a bit beige. That’s ok. Add in the chunks of butter and pulse to break the butter into the dry mix until it is lumpy.

Turn the mixture out into a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center and add the eggs, and most of the cream. Mix to make a shaggy mass and then add in the raisins and currants. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead gently to make a cohesive dough. Pat into 1 inch diameter and cut into wedges, about 10 or so. Brush the scones with melted butter and dust with sugar or coarse sugar.

Place on baking sheet and baking until just browned on top and around the edges (more around the edges), about 16-18 minutes.

For the fondant, mix the confectioners’ sugar with the extracts and milk or cream, as required, (very little) to make a soft spreadable fondant. Smear or spread on a few scones (some scones leave butter topped, some dust with confectioners’ sugar and some apply fondant). Before the fondant sets, place a few pieces of semi-sweet chocolate on top and some shreds of orange zest. Let set.

Makes about 10.

Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Apple Pie for Someone You Love, A Kitchen Valentine



Food writers, cookbook authors, and otherwise sorts of recipe recorders spend their days formatting recipes. In my case, this means documenting what I create first in flour and butter and then translating, in exacting wording, each recipe just so. For the website, this means you can make what I make – and it should come out at least similarly. In cookbooks and magazine and other print venues, recipe writing and formatting is even more stringent. But this exactitude enables cookbook readers to enjoy the culinary haiku and reproduce the same recipe. Accuracy has its appeal and consistency of recipe writing is what great cookbooks are all about. Essentially, it is my kitchen, expertise, taste and baker’s vision in a template you can use. I spoke at an alumni gathering at my own university recently, McGill. It was a speech about translating our passions into viable work and a career. One of the students asked me if I ever worry about my passion for baking dimming, due to it being my day job. Fortunately, (and it was a good question), the answer is no. Somehow the flame is always there. But still, I often longingly day dream, especially in this heart-themed month, how I would write recipes if formatting was not an issue and no one paid no mind to exact amounts and perfect dotted teaspoons and ups. I thought about this again when I saw the fabulous and tender, bittersweet movie Waitress, wherein Jenna, a pregnant, waitress with a penchant for sweet and dramatic pies, creates pies of life: Lonely Chicago Pie, Car Radio Pie, Falling in Love Pie, Love at First Sight Chocolate Mousse Pie and Spanish Dancer Pie. She also has ‘Baby Sreaming It’s Head Off in the Middle of theNightand Ruining My Life’ Pie (pecans and nutmeg over a New York Style cheesecake. No Crust) and the dire but delicious “Earl Murders Me Cause I’m Having An Affair Pie’ (Blackberries and cherries in a chocolate crust) or the deadly, “I can’t Have No Affair Because It’s Wrong and I Don’t Want Earl to Kill Me Pie’ (Vanilla custard with banana. Hold the banana).Waitress is a film well worth renting. It is up there with other great food films (Mostly Martha, Simply Irresistible, Like Water for Chocolate, Big Night, No Reservations, Babette’s Feast) and because of the tragic real-life aftermath of one of the film’s stars and screenplay writers, it is all the more poignant. In honor of Jenna, the pie genius protagonist, as well as the late Adrienne Shelley, the screenplay writer behind the film who also stars in it, a pie recipe as replete as the film itself.

It bears noting: I am not Jenna the Waitress but I am a pie gal. So if I invented a special apple pie for a sweetheart I would write a recipe very simply and from the heart. It would go something, in the case of apple pie, like this.

Apple Pie for Someone You Love

Enough butter pastry for one nice size tart pan

6 to 8 apples, such as a combination of Golden Delicious because they keep their shape well and Cortland or Macs, because they are crisp and sweet and have good apple character - which is everything in an apple pieSugar - if you are sweet, use less (I use less). If you are cold-hearted or you are jaded (as life in the city can make you) use more. But it might not help.

Cinnamon - not really necessary in apple pie but I like it, as do those I love, and I bake to please. Touch of lemon juice - balances the tart with the sweet.

Butter. Because butter is a gift. It is like gold. You must taste the butter to make sure it is fresh. A little might stay on your lips and shine ever so. You can lick that off. It will not affect the recipe. It might garner you more kisses than even the pie will.

Smidgen of apple cider - if you have a notion

Directions: pare your apples. Dream a little while doing this, but take care not to cut yourself. Think good thoughts. Good thoughts flavor everything just so. This is why most everything I make is ambrosial and stirring.

Butter your pan - preferably a nice French pan. A nice copper pan or a graniteware pan, while plain, will do the trick. Plain can be simple and pure. Be mindful of simple things.

Arrange your apples on the pan bottom. Dot with butter and dust with sugar. Lay a kiss of cinnamon on top, and one smaller kiss of lemon juice.

Roll your crust out - it might rip if you lack experience but if you are gentle, easy going, and thorough, it will respond. All dough knows the baker's intentions and it will respond in kind. Take time to touch the dough to have a sense of how it feels. Think of someone you love who will later enjoy your efforts. Take your time.

Lay the dough out on the apples, press lightly - properly rolled dough will naturally curve itself around the apples. Make sure it all nestles together just so. Bake in a hot stove ...not scorching but just enough heat.

Reduce heat and let things settle. Warm is always better than hot; slow is always better than rushing. Bring it out of the oven and with one deft movement - it is all about oh knowing and not knowing but hoping. Flip it over on a serving plate. Some times this is messy...but it is always good. Apple pie like this is best when it's shared. Best at midnight or early morning. It is not a dish for company. It is a dish for two. That is its true yield.

For more pies, real and wondrous, visit www.betterbaking.com

Strawberry Chocolate Pie from the Film, Waitress



Script from the film Waitress, with Kerri Russell, written by Adrienne Shelley. Recipe by Marcy Goldman
Nobody in the world can make strawberry chocolate pie like you. Wednesday is my favorite day of the week just cause I get to have me a slice of it. I think about it as I’m waking up. It could solve all the problems of the world, that pie. It’s a thing of beauty….how each flavor opens itself, one by one, like a chapter in a book. First, the flavor of an exotic spice hits ya. Just a hint of it…and then you get flooded with the chocolate, dark and bittersweet like an old love affair…..and finally – strawberry – strawberry the way it was always supposed to taste like but never could....


Jenna’s Strawberry Chocolate Pie

A dark and velvety chocolate experience. In the movie, this pie used a chocolate cookie crumb crust which you can certainly also use but in this first testing, I went with a buttery, baked pastry pie crust. This is filled with luscious, dark and silky chocolate filling and topped with a double strawberry filling. It is a sparkling romantic pie of decadence and the fluttery of spring – all in one bite. You can make the elements a day ahead and the assemble a few hours before serving.

1 baked 9 inch pastry pie crust(or chocolate cookie crumb pie shell)

Chocolate Silk Filling

1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 1/2 cup coarsely chopped, semi-sweet chocolate, (5 ounces)
1 package miniature marshmallows
1/3 cup whipping cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

(Whipping cream as required)

Fresh Strawberry Filling
2 cups strawberries, slightly crushed
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup water
4 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon strawberry or raspberry extract, optional
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 1/2 cups strawberries, diced if large, or halved if small

Garnish
2 cups whipping cream; whipped with 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
1/3 cup chocolate cookie crumbs
Diced Strawberries

Bake and cool the prepared pie crust. Set aside.
In a small saucepan over lowest heat, slowly melt the chocolate and butter together over low heat. Remove from heat and stir in the marshmallows to melt and then the cream and vanilla. Refrigerate while making strawberry filling.
For the Strawberry Filling, crush or mash the first amount of strawberries. Combine the sugar and cornstarch in a small bowl and whisk. In a medium saucepan, heat the crushed berries with sugar until they start to get a little liquidy. Cook and then add the cornstarch mixture until lightly bubbling and thickening. Remove from heat and stir in extract and vinegar. Cool 15 minutes and then fold in fresh strawberries. Refrigerate 2 hours.To assemble pie, spoon chocolate filling into pie shell. If the filling is too thick and cold, put it in a food processor and whiz with some whipping cream drizzled in, until it is soft enough to use as filling (but not gloppy). Top with the strawberry filling and then offer with dollops of sweetened whipped cream. Dust top with chocolate crumbs and diced strawberries. Serve at once or chill up to two days.
Serves 6-8

© This is a Marcy Goldman/BetterBaking.com original recipe
This recipe is for sole, personal use of visitors of BetterBaking.Com Online Magazine. Marcy Goldman/ BetterBaking.com recipes are for your enjoyment but not to be posted or reprinted without express permission of the author/baker. Thank you kindly for respecting my copyright and happy baking. BetterBaking.Com, established 1997.